Hooking up in an RV Park

So we did a short video & post on Boondocking.  Now what about if your in a full hookup park.  Well actually, your going to need even more equipment than if your boondocking !  Now again, since this is coming from me, it applies mostly to Popups, A-frames, Tabs, Caravans, Sprinters, and smaller trailers, but it will also be mostly true for  big Rigs too.  And I’ve Highlighted Links to equipment I recommend below.

If your in a full RV Hookup park,  that means you will be able to stay hooked up to electricity, water, and maybe sewer.  So  you need connectors for all these services.  While that sounds like a a no brainer, it actually requires some thought and extra preparation.

For example,  if you immediately park and hook up to the sewer with your “stinky slinky”, and pull the valve on your black tank so everything drains right into the sewer connection, you may find  that at the end of your trip you have  what is affectionately called,  “The Brown Pyramid” in your Black tank.   That is when everything that is flushed out of the toilet falls right into a mostly dry black tank and sticks there and builds up over time. You need to let the liquids  and solids build up and the solids dissolve so that  they will wash away when you pull the valve.  So its okay to hookup, set your sewer hose into the drain.  But, just don’t pull the valve until your at least ½ full, preferable 3/4 full.  Though I’ve been told by some sales people some of the new rigs have a tank washing/flushing process that will clean all the solids out of a  black tank, I take anything a salesman says with skepticism.  I don’t think they understand the concrete nature of a mix of toilet paper and fecal material that has dried over several days into a hard mass.  And it’s not something you want to work on cleaning out at home, where you probably don’t have a dump station in the driveway.

You will also most likely hook up to water.  It makes washing and flushing a “Home Like Experience”.  In addition to your white “Potable water” water line hose,  You really need to have a water regulator to make sure the pressure in the park is not going to blow apart your plumbing.  There are many parks that have high to much pressure.  Either due to the city water pressure levels, or the high pressure settings on their well pumps supplying water to 30, 50, or even 100 sites in their park.  When everyone is awake in the morning and making coffee, going to the bathroom, showering, and washing, the pressure may fall down around 30lbs or less, but at night when just the senior citizen in site 30 get ups to use the bathroom and the pump kicks on to maintain the water reserves, then the pressure may go up to 70-90 lbs.   So you want a good regulator

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and you want it to maintain no more than 35-40 lbs.  And don’t hope the cheap little ones are going to work as well.  They don’t really work if you leave your water on ALL the time.  Pressure will build up past their control orifice and your plumbing will be strained.

You also should have an RV water filter on any water you are introducing into your water tank.  While a little dirt won’t hurt you, it can do some significant damage to your on board water pump and possibly your water heater.  Also a  good charcoal filter will make  your water taste better, regardless of what land fill the park drilled their well next to.  Most good RV water filters are inline filters you just add to the end of your hose.  If you have a large RIG, like a 40ft Class A- there maybe a built in dual cartridge filter system.  One cartridge has a micro-filter for dirt and sand, and then the second is a charcoal filter for taste and any chemical contaminants.  And many  full timers  also use a mini-portable water softener system due to the severely hard water in some parts of the US.  This is one reason why when I go anywhere, I try to use my on board water supply for essentials like drinking and cooking and use the parks facilities for showers and bathroom activities so I always have my own known water from home.

You might also want to make sure you have at least 50ft of  your white potable water hose.  While most parks have the water spigot within 10-15 ft of the campsite, some that I have been in now have shared spigots  between 2 sites and maybe over 30 ft away.  I advise you to bring 2 25 ft hoses and a water splitter to use so you can still use the faucet without unhooking your hose.  I have also found a short 3 ft piece can be very handy for attaching your filter and regulator to your trailer.   For that I just made my own from a busted hose.

Okay, so we’ve cover the essentials of water and sewer.  What’s left ?  Electricity !  Well nothing to do there except plug in right ?!  A lot of people think that, and a lot of people complain about how their appliances are always failing.  Their A/C failed, their Microwaves failed, the lights keep burning out to often…..   Well, I’ll bet that a lot of that is due to bad power in the  campground or park.  Like the water pressure we mentioned above, the max voltage and amperage maybe available when everyone has gone to bed, but when everyone is up and making coffee and heating water and starting up their mid-morning A/C , the power fluctuations can be severe.  So anther piece of equipment you really need is a “Power Monitor” system.   These are RARELY included on any RV.  And the only reason I can figure why is that the dealer likes to fix your rig and sell you replacement appliances and stuff.   There are two basic types. Ones that hang on the electrical power pedestal outside, and ones that you mount inside and wire into your shore power cord. The two big brands are Surge Guard and Progressive Industries.  But they all cost around $300-$400.   And make no mistake, these are not the little “surge protector” things you get at Walmart to protect your computer, or even the overpriced ones you get at BestBuy to plug your new Big Screen theater system into .  These monitor and massage the electricity coming into your rig and compensate for low voltage or overvoltage. and protect against spikes and cut outs.   All of which you would never notice , but do damage to your electronics.   Voltage in parks regularly fluctuate from 107volts to 150volts.  And amperage can go down too.   All of which can harm sensitive electronics or motors.

Something else you might just want to bring along are regular household extensions cords and  power cord adapters.  I carry a 30amp to 50amp adapter,  a 30 amp to 20 amp adapter, and a 25 ft extension cord in  30 amp and 20 amp capacity.  Take a close look at the rack of extension cords at Walmart.  See how thicker and heavier some are compared to others.  Don’t skimp on electrical safety.  The consequences can be shocking !!

And just to add for a bit of increased comfortable living, I recommend an “RV Porch Mat“.  Most RV parks are either sand, dirt or crushed stone parking areas. As such you can carry in a lot of dirt and debris on your feet going in and out of the RV.  A “Porch mat” is very nice to keep the dirt and sand out of  your home away from home.   It seems in many state parks I have been in along the east coast, after a person leaves a site campsite, the camp host runs over and immediately cleans out the fire place and rakes the site.  This maximizes the loose dirt to track into my trailer.  So I always put down a porch mat in parks.  It also gives me a place to  “park the boys” so they stay in one place. They don’t leave the mat once I set them on a “STAY”.

And again, in a park, you are not going to be camping in isolation and hiding from the civilized world (or uncivilized as it maybe),  so pack a few chairs and set them out, so your neighbors can come over and have a place to sit and talk.  It is a great way to say, open for chatting !  Of course a cooler with cold beverages or a coffee pot can also be a friend attracter.

There is a lot of other “household stuff” that you might want to bring to make your trip more comfortable and fun.   Like a deck of cards or a board game or two,  A musical instrument, or painting set.  RV Parks are really fairly friendly and social places.  So enjoy the social aspect of  close camping and invite the neighbors over for a game of cards or a drink.  And we will talk more about that in a future video post.  Thanks for stopping by !  Camp safe and always have fun !

P.S.   – I forgot to mention  …  In case you didn’t watch the video yet, I also spoke about small electric heaters for Early Spring or Late Fall camping in a place with electricity.  And so to people who watched and commented on my video,  I am giving away this nice little 1500 watt heater with all the safety features and controls.  Its not too noisy and it heats up an Aliner very fast.  So if your interested in trying to win it, check out the video  >>>  https://youtu.be/oJ0yEybWSEE  for instructions or  just go to Amazon and get this heater I talked about !   

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